Oh Ryan's Irish Potatoes, from Linwood, PA
I searched thoroughly for some historical background on these sweets, but could not determine when they first originated in Philadelphia. However, I did discover that there are actual potato candy recipes (candy made with potatoes!) So perhaps the Philadelphia version evolved from these. Again, it is unclear how far back these potato candy recipes go, but it looks like they started becoming popular in the early twentieth century, especially in the south and midwest regions on the U.S. Most of the recipes I found require just three ingredients: potato, sugar and peanut butter, although I did find one that calls for shredded coconut and vanilla and substitutes chocolate for the peanut butter, courtesy of Alice Bradley, who was one of the principals of Fannie Farmer’s Cooking School. And none of these potato candy recipes suggest forming the mixture into a ball and rolling in cinnamon, coach and sugar to resemble a potato. It is likely some Philadelphia confectioner just happened to think of the idea in order to increase sales during the St. Patrick’s Day season, and it took off from there. That’s my theory anyway! In any case, go ahead and try any of these recipes, they are all tasty and easy!
Authentic Philadelphia-style Irish Potatoes (recipe from The Kitchn)
Irish Potato Candy
Makes about 4 1/2 dozen
- 4 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
- 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/8 teaspoon fine salt
- 1 pound powdered sugar (4 cups)
- 7 ounces flaked, sweetened coconut (2 2/3 cups), preferably angel flake
- 1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
Place the cream cheese, butter, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. (Alternatively, use an electric hand mixer and large bowl.) Beat on medium speed until fluffy and smooth, about 3 minutes. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl and the beater with a rubber spatula.
Return the mixer to low speed and gradually add the powdered sugar. When all the powdered sugar is incorporated, increase the speed to medium and beat until smooth, about 1 minute. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides again. Add the coconut and beat on low speed until incorporated.
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper if desired for easy cleanup. Scoop the coconut mixture out by level tablespoons onto the baking sheet, spacing them close together but not touching. Repeat until all the mixture is used up. Refrigerate for 30 minutes for the mixture to set.
Place the cinnamon in a small bowl. Using your hands, roll 1 of the pieces into a slightly oblong potato shape. Roll in the cinnamon to completely coat, then place back on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Recipe Notes
- Storage: Leftovers can be stacked on top of each other in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Potato Cocoanut Candy
- 1 medium sized potato
- 2 cups sifted confectioners sugar
- 2 cups shredded cocoanut
- 1 tsp vanilla
- Chocolate
Cook potato in boiling water until soft, and force through a coarse sieve or a potato ricer. There should be half a cup of potato. To this add sugar, cocoanut and vanilla, working together until well mixed. Press once inch thick into small bread pan, and spread top with a thin layer of melted bitter or chocolate or sweet chocolate. When chocolate is firm, cut into small squares. This can be varied by using nuts or fruits instead of cocoanut.
Source: The Candy Cook Book by Alice Bradley, Principal of Miss Farmer’s School of Cookery, 1922
Irish Potato Candy - very fudge-like!
This is the recipe I tried, printed in The Record-Argus newspaper (Greenville, PA) in April 1940. The column was called “Kitchenette” by Aunt Peggy. Her description: “Here is one of the most unusual recipes we’ve run across in a long time. It happens to be the favorite candy of Maggie Lee Cooke, who sends it to us from Glen Raven, NC. As a reward we’ve sent her this week’s one dollar prize.”
Irish Potato Candy
- 1 Irish potato, size of an egg
- 1 pound pulverized sugar (4-4 1/2 cups powdered)
- 1 small jar peanut butter
Boil potato until done, leaving on the peeling until cooked, then peel and mash with a fork. Work in the sugar making a stiff dough. Roll thin like piecrust with a rolling pin, then spread a thin layer of peanut butter all over the crust. Roll up like a jelly roll, and cut into one-inch squares. Chill and serve.
FYI: This recipe did not turn out exactly as expected. The dough was rather sticky so I added a little cornstarch. It was still too sticky to roll up like a jelly roll, so I decided to mix in the peanut butter a bit to make a kind of fudge and chilled it in the fridge. That worked! You could also try to chill the dough before rolling it out which could do the trick. Also key is using the starchiest potatoes you can find (such as Idaho or Russet).
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