Chocolate Cake

Believe it or not, chocolate cake in America was a Victorian era invention. It wasn’t until the later part of the 19th century when chocolate as a cake flavoring really started appearing in cookbooks. Prior to this, chocolate was consumed mainly as a beverage. In fact, the earliest recipes labeled “chocolate cake” were meant to be eaten with hot chocolate and actually contain no chocolate at all. In the late 1870s improvements in cocoa processing created a much smoother, more delicious tasting chocolate, which better translated to cake baking. 

A well-known Philadelphian – cookbook writer Eliza Leslie – is credited for publishing the first cake recipe in America truly made with chocolate. It appeared in The Lady’s Receipt Book in 1847. It uses finely chopped chocolate, giving the cake a speckled look. Eventually baking chocolate and cocoa became mainstream in baking. This is the case with the recipe I am sharing below from 19th century cooking instructor Sarah Tyson Rorer. Mrs. Rorer taught cooking classes from the lates 1870s through the early 20th century. She also was very popular at the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago, becoming a household name and traveling the country to demonstrate cooking techniques to one packed auditorium after another.

Another cooking instructor, Miss (Maria) Parloa, helped expand the popularity of chocolate cakes by partnering with Baker’s chocolate to publish several pamphlets featuring chocolate dessert recipes using their products. And what about the ever-popular Devil’s Food Cake? Well, ironically, we come full circle to Mrs. Rorer. She was the first to publish a Devil’s Food cake recipe – in Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book in 1902. Basically she just doubles the amount of chocolate and cooks it with the milk until smooth and thick (like a custard) to produce a richer taste. She also specifies pasty flour and warns, “The success of this cake depends on the flour used.”

This chocolate cake is simple and delicious. Not a dark and really moist, rich cake (like Devils’ Food) – it is lighter in color and not overly sweet. This cake is extremely versatile and portable, as it contains no icing and can be baked as a loaf - think of it as a “snacking cake!” Perfect for picnics and other outdoor gatherings or as a partner of a cup of coffee or tea. Featured in The Gilded Age Cookbook (Globe Pequot, 2023) 

Mrs. Rorer’s Chocolate Cake 

SERVES 10–12

• 2 ounces (1/2 package) unsweetened baking chocolate
• 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, softened
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 4 large eggs, separated
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• Confectioners’ sugar for sprinkling (optional)

1.  Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9-inch springform or 9 x 5-inch loaf pan.
Set aside.

2.  Place the chocolate in a microwave-safe dish and heat in the microwave on high
for 1 minute. Take out the dish and give the chocolate a stir. Continue doing this in
30-second intervals until chocolate is melted. Set aside.

3.  Using an electric mixer, beat the butter in a large bowl on medium-high speed until
creamy. Gradually add the sugar, then the egg yolks. Turn down to low and add the
milk, then the melted chocolate and flour. Mix until well incorporated.

4.  In a separate bowl, beat the whites of the eggs until firm peaks form, about 6–7
minutes. Add to the chocolate mixture, stirring until well blended. Stir in the vanilla
and baking powder until just combined.

5.  Pour the batter into a springform or loaf pan. Bake for 35–45 minutes if using a
springform pan and 55–60 minutes if using a loaf pan, or until a toothpick inserted
into the top comes out clean. Place pan on a wire rack to cool, about 30 minutes for
the springform pan and 15–20 minutes for the loaf pan, then invert on the wire rack
to cool completely. Just before serving, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar if desired.