If you had been invited to a Gilded Age tea party, you might have been served some of these delicious cookies. Jumbles (sometimes spelled jumbals) were one of the first cookies to become popular in America. 

Originally shaped like a figure eight or double ring, the name jumble comes from the Latin word gemel, which means “twin.” Since this was a time-consuming shape for a cookie, it became customary to form the dough into single rings. By the end of the nineteenth century, many cooks rolled out the dough, cut it into rounds and then stamped out the middles (like doughnuts). 

Just about every manuscript or published cookbook from the nineteenth century featured at least one jumbles recipe, which could vary depending on the source. Rose water was a common ingredient (in fact, they were sometimes called "rose jumbles"). Made from distilled rose petals, rose water was introduced to Europe from Middle East, then brought over to Colonial America as a flavoring for both sweet and savory foods. It was later eclipsed by vanilla in many baked goods, which is a shame, as it creates a subtly aromatic cookie, especially fitting for teatime. Other possible jumbles ingredients included freshly grated nutmeg, cinnamon, mace, cloves, milk or sour cream, vanilla, coconut and lemon essence. 

The version featured here contains rose water, nutmeg, cinnamon and mace, resulting in a unique taste combination that is both spicy and delicate. It is a recipe I have made over and over, adapted from the signature recipe of Mrs. Elizabeth Goodfellow, a savvy entrepreneur who ran a pastry shop and a cooking school for young ladies in early nineteenth century Philadelphia.

In the video, I demonstrate how to shape the dough into rings. After chilling it for at least two hours, it is rolled out, then cut into narrow strips. Each strip is rolled between the palms or on a work surface to form a rope approximately five inches long. The ends of each rope are then brought together to create a ring. I personally find it easier to wrap them around my finger, but really whatever method works! The "rings" are then placed on a baking sheet, spaced about one inch apart. Once they come out of the oven they are sprinkled with sugar. Enjoy the distinctively fragrant flavor of jumbles for a special taste of the Gilded Age. Just one of the recipes featured in The Gilded Age Cookbook, now available for pre-order!